September, known as the “mes patrio” or patriotic month, is the month when Mexicans commemorate the consummation of our independence, which took place in 1821. During the official celebration on Sept. 15, the President reenacts the way the independence movement began with what we call the “grito” — the cry of independence. The most famous seasonal dish is Chile en Nogada. The dish is essentially a stuffed poblano pepper covered in a walnut sauce. The stuffing is a mixture of beef or pork with fruits such as apple, peach, banana and pear, along with almonds, pine nuts, walnuts, onion and garlic. Its flavor profile, combining sweet and salty, is outstanding.
included in September’s menu as the quintessential Mexican dish.According to information from an official government page, on Aug. 28, 1821, the Augustinian nuns of the Convent of Santa Mónica in the state of Puebla welcomed the first Emperor of independent Mexico, Agustín de Iturbide, with a newly created dish that represented the colors of the new national flag: green, white and red. This, the tale goes, is how chile en nogada came to be.
The idea that the nuns created the dish for Iturbide is also a myth. Historical records indicate that the recipe was already being prepared in the early 1800s. Researcher Lilia Martínez has discovered that nogada is a European sauce with documented origins going back to the 15th century.
It’s important to note that without the Spanish Conquest, this dish would be impossible, since most of the ingredients originate in Spain or were brought over in intercontinental trade. These ingredients include the English walnut, a protein option of pork, beef or chicken, pomegranate, almonds, apples, pears, peaches and bananas. The poblano pepper is the sole ingredient native to this land — a huge and vital contribution, if I may add.
So why is it considered the quintessential Mexican dish? Wouldn’t it make much more sense if we ate a mole madre or a tlacoyo? Once I find out when it became the quintessential Mexican dish, I will create a video and write an article about it.
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