Ek Balam, or “black jaguar” in Mayan, was founded in the 3rd century BCE. and inhabited through the 11th century. The archaeological site was first excavated in the late 1980s and opened to the public in the late 1990s.
We recommend it highly. Ek Balam is easy to get to from Valladolid, just 30 minutes north in the northern Maya lowlands.
Visitors will first find an elevated rectangular structure with vaulted entryways on all four sides. It likely served as a checkpoint for travelers looking to gain access to the core of Ek Balam.
The city was protected by two large concentric walls built to defend against attack. In addition to the two large walls, a series of smaller walls and defensive positions bisected the core of the city. Not much is known about the wars that Ek Balam fought, but its fortifications date back to the late Classical period. That was a time of great strife between powerful city-states of the north of Yucatán.
Honoring Ek Balam’s ruler
The largest structure on the site is known as the Acropolis. It houses the tomb of king Ukit Kan Leʼk Tok’, who ruled Ek Balam in the 8th century CE.
The Acropolis is famous for its elaborate stucco reliefs, which are some of the most striking and well-preserved examples of artwork in all of Mesoamerica.
One section of its stucco facade depicts an open-jawed “monster of the earth” accompanied by what appear to be winged human figures. Depictions of the “monster of the earth” are heavily associated with Xibalbá, the Maya netherworld.
Some rooms in the Acropolis contain wall paintings that survive to this day. They depict a variety of scenes from Maya mythology as well as highly stylized hieroglyphics.
The structure known as the oval palace served as an astronomical observatory, though its architecture varies greatly from those found at sites such as Chichén Itzá or Mayapán.
As is the case with most large cities in the region, Ek Balam features a ceremonial Maya ballcourt or Pok-ta-Pok.
This is also one of the few places where you can still climb the pyramids and see the surrounding land, including mounds that contain not-yet excavated Maya temples. The views are amazing.
If you go
Given its proximity to Valladolid, Ek Balam makes for a great day trip from Yucatán’s second city. The popularity of the archaeological site has really taken off in the last few years, so it is best to arrive at opening time to avoid the tourist buses from Cancún and the Riviera Maya.
Ek Balam is open to the public daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. The site has good facilities, including clean bathrooms and a large parking lot. As with all archaeological sites in Mexico, outside food or drink — other than water — is prohibited.
If a day at the ruins has you beat, there’s a cenote down a dirt road path about one kilometer from the parking lot. Cenote X-Canché is great for cooling off, and the food at the little restaurant is surprisingly good.
Activities such as cycling, climbing, and rappelling are also available for a fee.
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