The Mesmerizing Frescoes of Bonampak

A view of Bonampak’s great acropolis, surrounded by foliage of the Lacandon jungle. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Home of the so-called Sistine Chapel of Mesoamerica, the ruins of Bonampak lay deep in the thick Lacandon jungle in Chiapas.

The city was founded in the early 2nd century CE and had grown to be large by the time Yaxchilán invaded in the 5th century and installed Yajaw Chan Muwaan I as lord of the city. The name Chan, meaning “small,” is to this day one of the most common surnames in southeastern Mexico and, by the way, the paternal last name of my lovely wife, Yesica.

In the Mayan language, bonampak means “painted walls,” but in antiquity, the city was known as Usiij Witz, or “vulture mound.”

The architecture of Bonampak is impressive and is dominated by a large multi-level acropolis that supports several structures.

Detail of stairway and structure in Bonampak’s acropolis. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

Bonampak is most famous for its splendidly preserved frescoes, but has other features that should not be overlooked.

A wonderfully preserved lintel in Bonampak depicts a lord wearing a ceremonial headdress. A lintel is a structural horizontal block that spans the space or opening between two vertical supports. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

During the great Classic Maya collapse of the 9th century, Bonampak was abandoned. After it was rediscovered in 1948, archaeologists made a staggering find. During their excavations, they stumbled across a structure with three chambers containing exquisitely preserved frescoes featuring scenes of war, festivities, political intrigue, and myth.

Mighty Chan Muhan II holds court, deciding the fate of war captives. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

The preservation of the frescoes for well over a millennia ultimately came down to a series of serendipitous coincidences. But whatever the circumstances, the find caused great excitement among scholars. Images of the frescoes began to be printed in specialized journals but soon made their way to the popular press.

More than perhaps any other example of Maya art, the frescoes of Bonampak have shaped the way contemporary people imagine the classical Maya. Specialists have even referred to the frescoes as the “Sistine Chapel of Mesoamerica”—and with good reason. The frescoes are the work of a Maya artist known by the name of Och, meaning “opossum.”

The structure containing the frescoes is 16 meters long, four meters wide, and seven meters tall. It is constructed on a T-shaped platform and still retains some of its original stucco facades. The structure is divided into three separate rooms and presents scenes surrounding the accession to power of King Chooj.

Photographs do not do it justice. This is especially true given that the entire surface area of each room is covered in frescos, which are notoriously difficult to photograph.

Each room has its own theme and is completely covered in frescoes. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The narrative presented is to be read chronologically, beginning in Room 1 with the investiture of the new king and several jubilant musical performances.

Musicians perform using rattling instruments on the south wall of room 1. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Room 2 is the largest of the three and contains 139 human figures. It contains a scene that is widely considered the greatest battle scene in all of Maya art. These frescoes also show King Chooj holding court and deciding the fates of captured prisoners.

Detail of war scene depicting a man getting run through with a spear. Although one of the most damaged frescoes at the site, it is still clear when seen in person. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

Room 3 is the scene of ritual celebration for victory in battle, including bloodletting by nobles. It is also different from Rooms 1 and 2 in that it depicts several noblewomen.

Noble women of the court offering their blood to the gods in thanks to their king’s victory in war. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

If you go

The roads in this region of Chiapas can be treacherous, so driving yourself is not advisable.

Organized tours departing from Palenque to Bonampak usually also include a visit to Yaxchilán. Tours usually leave around 5 or 6 a.m. and cost between 1,200 and 1,700 pesos. It is money well spent.

Bonampak is in Southern Mexico. Image: Google Maps.

If you are ever in Mexico City, you may also want to check out the reproductions of the frescoes made by Guatemalan artist Rina Lazo — who was an apprentice of Diego Rivera early in her career — at the National Anthropology Museum.

For composite views of the frescoes room by room, check out the Bonampak page on latinamericanstudies.org.