“Call me what you like, only give me some vodka.” – Russian Proverb
“There are only two absolutes in life: friends and vodka. And the best times usually involve both” – Unknown
The ancient Maya believed that the cenotes, with their glistening waters, were sacred paths in the spirit world. Cueva vodka has been created with this cherished mineral rich water to produce a smooth yet complex flavor that can only be achieved here in the Riviera Maya. Cueva has already won many awards, including a silver medal in the 2015 International SIP Awards.
The project started about three years ago when Bart and Jen Smith of Turtle Bay Cafe teamed up with Gary Kelleher to create Cueva. Gary Kelleher is a Master Distiller who created Dripping Springs Vodka in Texas, which was the winner of the International Purity Trophy and 1876 Vodka and winner of the International Double Gold. This made him a great partner to harness the qualities of the pristine cenote water from deep in the jungle.
Recently the Cueva team sat down to answer some questions for the press.
Why are you making Vodka in Mexico?
Bart Smith: I think the simple answer is that we do not seek to create a ‘factory’ vodka, but rather we are joining the worldwide movement of local consumption and we are doing so through artisinal distillates.
I personally had three years watching my country (United States) and the community where I was born (Kentucky) – interesting things were happening. I watched the owners of bars and restaurants like ours. They were having so much fun and really given the opportunity to express their creativity through what they were serving or selling on their premises.
And you do not know my despair. What could I grow myself? I live in the jungle! Here there is no land! It was very frustrating to see how everyone was doing things and I was limited to cook with what I found nearby.
I anticipate that Cueva Vodka is only the beginning. I am really excited about, unable to sleep, thinking about the possibilities that I have to master more tools in the distillery. I put as much or more attention into distilling as I do into my culinary creations. I love cooking.
In fact, this project is a love story (laughs): love for food and drink, but especially the love for my wife that already has deep roots in Akumal. We arrived here for the first time during our honeymoon and that was over 12 years ago.
Vodka is distiller friendly in the sense that although we must master the process of distillation and put extreme attention to detail to keep your body and flavor…really it is not very complicated. We also have the good fortune to have Gary on the team and he had years of perfecting their recipes and processes, even the design of the copper stills where we distill our products.
Jen Smith: I, like Bart and Gary, worked as a bartender for years in the United States. As a mixologist you can have fun with vodka, especially if it is good, or in the case of Cueva, very good quality.
Tell us about the importance of water in the production of Vodka.
Gary Kelleher: Water is everything. 70% of vodka is water. The taste of the vodka comes from there, from the mineral water. It is no coincidence, for example, there is a “boom” of distilleries handcrafted in central Texas, where you can find sources like mine for Dripping Springs. That water seeps underground through limestones. The caverns give the water a special touch.
BS: In Kentucky it is the same. There are so many distillery houses dedicated to Bourbon High because water quality is very interesting in relation to the amount of minerals that are present in it. If there is limestone in the ground, it will be good.
So You Have the Water, What Else Makes Cueva Special?
All Vodka starts with mash. Mash is the base that is fermented to make the alcohol which is then distilled, filtered, and refined into the finished product. Mash can be made from grains, sugars, fruits, potatoes, or just about anything that can be fermented. Cueva chose to stay local and organic. Their vodka starts with locally sourced organic sugar cane.
Once the mash has been fermented and filtered it turns into a nice clear ethanol mixture. This is where
the distillation process begins. The size, shape, and design of the stills are all critical to a great product. Cueva stills were custom designed by Gary Kelleher, hand made in Austin, and imported directly to Akumal.
Aside from the normal challenges with creating a great product and brand, Cueva had some additional challenges with the government. Quintana Roo has never had a liquor producer so they have no laws on the books on how to permit or tax one. The Cueva crew has been working closely with the government for the better part of a year. They finally just got word that the liquor licenses have been approved, making the Cueva distillery officially the first liquor distillery in the Riviera Maya – and the entire state of Quintana Roo. Production is slated to start in September!
When and Where to Get It?
Cueva is being produced as a small batch premium vodka so they can focus on quality and consistency.
Starting in October it will be available in select liquor stores in the Riviera Maya, Monterrey, and Mexico City. You can get drinks with it at some of your favorite bars in the Riviera Maya – just ask for it by name. Finally, you can always buy a bottle of it at Turtle Bay Bakery and Cafe starting the end of September.
Being local in Akumal, we had a chance to sample Cueva on many occasions and taste the evolutions of Bart’s recipe. His final recipe is smooth yet complex, one of the best vodkas this author has tried. I may never buy another vodka again! If you like Vodka, this is a must try, trust me.
What about Dave Bliss? He is a partner and the still is on his property.